Thank you for coming to New York Fashion Week 2020 S/S on September 6th!
“Sword is the life of a samurai”
Our 2020 SS presentation opens and closes with a Japanese sword carried out by samurai models. Our brand’s mission is to spread the beauty of traditional Japanese craftsmanship to the world, hence our past collection has been related to the Japanese history and those who played and important role in the various fields.
This is our first time presenting at the NYFW. We wanted to have as much people get to know more about the history of samurai and the wonders of our culture, and what better way is there than to introduce the history of the brave Samurai’s who helped shape Japan the way it is now in present time. This collection illuminates Kyoto’s Nishijin Kimono Textile and Tango Chirimen with a contemporary look of samurai history
FORTUNA Tokyo takes you on a ride back to the ancient times of Japan from the 7th to the 18th century, where Samurai’s and sword fighting‘s dominated the Japanese society. See below for each period’s description.
Look1 SENGOKU Period (15th-16th century) ↑
Taking direct inspiration from the Samurai warriors during the Sengoku Period, Young Paris models a handmade warrior suit woven with “Nishijin Carbon”, a Nishijin Kimono Textile incorporating carbon fiber.The Haori, a traditional kimono styled jacket, used in this look is a mimic of Jinbaori. Jinbaori is a military camp jacket that can only be worn by a high ranking samurai, the admiral (Taisho in Japanese).
Look2 HEIAN Period I (8th-12th century) ↑
The Heian period was when aristocrats dominated the society and an extravagant court culture blossomed, enabling the nation to progress in literature and arts. On the other hand, samurai’s gradually emerged and started taking over.
Since ancient time, purple is considered to be the most noble color, hence we combined shirts with cherry blossom patterned Nishijin Kimono neckties all in purple, cherry crepe colored jackets, and pleated pants that has the same design as the jacket. Although most samurai’s belonged to the middle class, there were few who had the opportunity to serve to the imperial family. Such samurai’s had to work in elegant outfits, which this look has taken inspiration from.
Look3 HEIAN Period II (8th-12th century) left side↑
Similar to Look 2, this look represents the extravagant and relatively peaceful time in history which can be seen through the soft vibrant colors. The Haori jacket has a light green base with graphics of bright pink cherry blossoms made in a Chirimen material. It is paired up with cherry blossom patterned Nishijin Kimono Textile necktie and a Chirimen pants finishing the look.
We used female model as a means to demonstrate that it was an era where women played a significant role in the development in literature.
Look4 MUROMACHI Period I (14th-16th century) right side↑
During the Muromachi period, battles flourished, and there are untold of stories of women who powerfully fought in order to protect their castle. In the look of a female warrior, the samurai is arranged with the same Chirimen fabric as the samurai hat. A military jacket that mixes Jinbaori and MA1 is combined with heel joppler pants that are conscious of mobility in the battle scene by squeezing the hem of the heel, and expresses a brave samurai who fights on a horse.
Look5 KAMAKURA Period (12th-14th century) left side↑
Kamakura period when Japan entered the age of samurai. From Heian period’s gorgeous hue Kamakura changes to a masculine tone. We reflect the acceleration of the economy and the masculinity of the society through elegant turquoise and black. For the jacket, we used a “Kiritake Tatewaku” a Japanese pattern initially used by the royal family and later aristocrats and samurai. This jacket is made with an environment friendly Nishijin Kimono Textile that uses a recycled pet fabric.. For the necktie, we have a cherry blossom pattern as a base, The models spear hat is called an Eboshi (a hat), it represents the arrival of a new samurai era.
Look6 MUROMACHI Period II (14th-16th century) right side↑
The Jinbaori coat was made from a samurai denim fabric that Samurai liked, with platinum foil processing. The Nishijin textile silk is featured with a motif inspired by the late Muromachi period military commander Masamune times. It is inspired by the battlefield.
Look7 EDO Period I (17th-19th century) left side↑
Entering the Edo period, many long fought war in the Muromachi period finally came to an end and a relatively peaceful time arrived to Japan. From this, Japanese literature and Ukiyo-e paintings developed.
The Haori for this look has a decorated with the same Nishijin woven silk as the “18. Hokusai (Mt. Fuji and cherry blossom)” tie, and the pleated folds were combined. It has a brown fan with a samurai pattern and expresses a relaxed peacetime samurai.
Look8 EDO Period II (17th-19th century) right side↑
Our final look imagines the night before the Meiji Restoration, an event that restored practical imperial rule to the Empire of Japan in 1868, the day marking the closing of the history of samurai for good.
Like its name, the “Dragon” necktie is woven in a Nishijin Kimono Textile with a weave design similar to that of dragon’s scale. The back lining has a graphic design of a dragon painted by Katsushika Hokusai, the infamous Ukiyo-e artist best known for his “36 Views of Mount Fuji” artwork.
The Samurai poncho worn over the suit has a modern twist to its design compared to the past periods due to the sudden urbanization occurring after the end of isolation from foreign countries that lasted for over 200 years.
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